Camouflage Painting Firearms
I had this thread set up in another forum, and they made it a sticky, since it applies to any and all weapons that you may want to paint tactically.
The details are simple, and the results are magnificent.
ETA: images added through the help of Five O...
How to do it right:
SFC T.B. at sotic told me to do it this way:
1. disassemble.. strip all exterior parts
2. I cleaned it with brake cleaner, brushed the cracks and crevices with a firm brush
3. I let it dry overnite.
4. mask off (on the rifle) the mag well, s/n, safe and fire,
on the parts, masked holographic lenses, flashlight lens, part number on rear sight. and anything else you desire to cover
5. Base coat of flat almond on all parts seperately (keft the upper and lower together)
5.1 assemble exterior parts
6. next coat without foliage of flat sand in crossing parts
7. next coat in primer brick red with oak leaf, small leafs, grass and group of twigs
8. next coat of OD green with same foliage...
9. let dry
10 take pix and present shit eating grin...
I was able to do the small colors without letting it dry in between, and I could pick it up and carry in five minutes.
when painting, keep 10-12 inches and start spraying left to right before you get to your target and spray after you pass target.. use many light coats instead of one heavy coat..
I had to fix a couple spots, but I simply let it dry, and scraped the blemishes rubbed them clean and touched up.
On step 2., make sure you brush it after it's dry, or brush it wet AND after its dry. You'll see residue when it dries.
Also After the base coat, I made one mistake. When I added the next layer, I held the can too close. It didnt run, but the solvent of the second color caused the first layer to flake up like a paint stripper. To avoid this, hold the second coat about 18 inches away and mist multi light light layers.. This solved and prevented the prob.
If it does flak or blemish, I waited until bone dry (stopped all next steps) gently scraped the flaked portion off with a small jewelers flat tip screwdriver (1/8th inch), then gently sanded the edge where the good paint meets the part you just scraped off. then continued on with the next steps..
Hope it works. If you need any help, I'd love to do what I can.. If you're near Fort Campbell, Ky or Clarksville, TN. I'll do it for free.. for you all here.
Just PM and I'll meet you