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Well decided to go all tactilol on my Ar. I also have a Harris Bipod, but it's not pictured.
First built:
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/7172/1000528l.th.jpg
Tacilol:
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/9584/1000662n.th.jpg
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/3649/1000663e.th.jpg
http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/4578/1000664g.th.jpg
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/6838/1000665.th.jpg
Nice. Explain the problems you are having with some of your other accessories. I'm betting you will find some help from some knowledgeable guys here.
Got it all figured out.
I was scratching my noggin for a while trying to figure out how to best get those rail covers on. I was trying to lift them up and over the rail, well that doesn't work. Ended up having to walk em on left to right, instead of top to bottom like I was trying.
Gotcha, just saw your post on SSU.
Bipod is probably wasted on a rifle that holds 2 minutes of angle at best.
You've got a scope on there, but a forward grip - sort of like a combo between a short range gun and a long range gun.
If it were me, I'd change out the optic to something you could use for both.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MacLean
I really built this to start off as an all around gun. And I am slowly turning it into a distance shooter.
But yea I will be pulling the trigger (pun intended) on an Aimpoint M2 pretty soon. So the gun will be a jack of all trades.
Eventually I will snag another upper (14.5 or shorter) and make a CQB gun.
Roger - not dissing your gun ElTee, just offering a bit of experienced observation.Quote:
Originally Posted by StoleIt
If you plan to stay with the optic for some time, read up on the Bindon aiming concept and see what you can pull off on low magnification.
Oh no insult taken. I realize the irony of me trying to take like a 3-4 MOA gun and make it a distance shooter. Just using it to work down better habbit patterns, trigger pull, breathing, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by MacLean
Cheaper to shoot than .308 or 30-06 for a future M1A or R700 (which are all on my to do list).
Bindon? I will read up on that. This Nikon goes up to 12 zoom, but it isn't a mildot it has a bullet drop compensator and thats pretty foreign to me. So I'll be getting used to that.
Next time you are over dealing with the red hats, ask them about it, too.Quote:
Originally Posted by StoleIt
Dial the zoom down to the lowest setting for best results. Some scopes will go low enough, some won't.
Ahh both eyes open? Shiet that will take some practice.
El Tee, you don't close one eye when you fly, do ya?Quote:
Originally Posted by StoleIt
We don't do that on the ground, either.
lolQuote:
Originally Posted by MacLean
I'll try. It's gonna be tough though. It's pretty much a conditioned response at this point.
Where is the light? :noidea:
I haven't met an AR which would not hold sub 2MOA with ammo it likes, but I haven't shot any of the truly cheap ones out there either. I picked up a new DPMS Sportical flat top brand new for less than $600 and even that held near 1.5 Minute groups easily. A bipod is a more useful accessory than a forward grip for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by MacLean
There would have to be something seriously wrong with an AR to only be capable of 3-4MOA. Any of the offerings from the mainstream brands on the market are 1.5 or better (Stag, Rock River, DPMS, Armalite, Colt, Bushmaster). Very few creep towards 2. Of course ammo selection can make it swing. Wolf 55gr FMJ can give you 3+MOA groups. Wolf 55gr HP can give sub 1.5 groups.Quote:
Originally Posted by StoleIt
I am assuming that you have a 4-12 scope. At 4 power, scope slammed forward and stock butt extended with your comb up a bit, you should be able to get a good turkey neck and cheek weld for shooting at 25M.
Don't feel like you have to rush out and get a .30 cal. From 25M to 300yds and even further, a .223 will do everything you need it to. Save your money up and get a really nice .30 cal. The better you get with your .223, the more of the potential you will get out of your .30. I wouldn't get too hung up on your BDC lines for now. If you zero your scope at 200yds(same as 50yds), depending on your ammo, you should not make more than about 2Minutes of adjustment to hit anything from zero to 300yds. What you have to remember is that those lines are a compromise and are not calibrated for your rifle. You can not zero the top line at exactly 100 or 200 yds and expect the second and 3rd line to be zeroed exactly 100 yds further. It is better to save them for less precision shooting and get proficient and comfortable with your scope elevation clicks.Quote:
Originally Posted by StoleIt
While keepng both eyes open may be ideal, it is not a deal breaker for decent shooting. Some people have a harder time than others breaking the habit of keeping one eye closed.
Closing one eye is a deal breaker at short range, but your mileage may vary.